The trend over the last couple decades in Morocco has been to abandon the big international hotels in the new cities and stay in renovated riads, or stately homes centered on leafy courtyards. Your correspondents are admittedly a bit contrarian at times, but we're trying to accept the trends that have merit - and this trend certainly does. We stayed at a fine riad in Fez, with a nice roof deck for taking breakfast and a beautiful blue-tiled courtyard featuring fruit tress and a fountain and the bowl of oranges above and a number of live turtles.
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